Udaipur

1,301 Comments / Asia, Travel / By

This may be plainly obvious to many, but it was only a year ago while visiting Helsinki, that I realised just how much a sprinkling of nature amidst a cityscape can enhance my experience of it. No, I’m not about to compare Udaipur to Helsinki, and yes, there are cities like New York which can hold their own. But as I watched Udaipur’s Pichola lake and the verdant hills beyond, a gentle breeze skimming my hair, I realised what I had been longing for in Jaipur where I had just spent 4 nights – a city where nature and history felt within reach.

So pleased was I to be able to watch the ripples in the water, accompanied by birdsong (of the Koyal or Nightingale) that Udaipur didn’t need to reveal much more to appease me. Like a charming salesman it had caught my attention in the first 5 minutes. I needed to work a little harder therefore to see what else was on offer.

Well into my first day, I finally left my peaceful oasis to explore my immediate neighbourhood. Particularly charming was how low, and close together the houses were, as if borrowed from a movie set. And the occasional sighting of a breathtaking, ancient temple was dimmed only slightly by the rubbish that lay at its feet. Later that day I watched the sun set over the lake, eventually retiring to my room and wondering what Roger Moore made of his time here while filming Octopussy at the gorgeous Lake Palace hotel, 3 decades ago.

The next morning I set out again, till the old city’s variously elevated, meandering gullies spat me out onto the main road. Motorbikes were rife, with riders seemingly vying for the award of “Most Obnoxious Horn”. I redirected my attention towards the market’s wares – large shiny tin trunks, balls of dough afloat in plus sized woks of hot oil, and so many silver shops which led me to wonder why I hadn’t yet seen a woman clad in argentate armour. As I walked back it occurred to me that perhaps the mayhem existed purely to amplify the serenity of the lake.

Feeling particularly grateful, I took a boat ride at dusk which unsurprisingly salved my frazzled nerves. The ride also afforded me some friendly banter with a group of travellers, all part of the same tour group. I have never travelled in a tour group, and may not for the foreseeable future, but in that moment I how longed for the camaraderie they shared! To paraphrase my mother in law, there is a gossamer sheet that separates freedom from loneliness.

Time had come for me leave, and I had one last stop – the City Palace. It is labyrinthine maze allows taller people the great joy of ducking into and out of winding passage ways. There were beautiful rooms to be seen, some of which had the amusing inclusion of life-sized paper cutouts of relevant royals. I enjoyed walking around, but had to constantly dodge attacks from selfie sticks wielded by the flailing arms of local tourists, seemingly disinterested in the history that surrounded them.

Lake Pichola was the first thing that caught my eye, and remained the one thing I loved most about Udaipur at end of my trip. Even so, I drew much joy from this one hit wonder, which made listening to city’s less melodious tunes perfectly worth it.

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