Dindigul, Tamil Nadu

The ‘backyard’ of Cardamom House, raw beauty

I left Ooty – so named by the British who couldn’t be bothered to say Udhagamandalam – in a mad rush. I had decided after just one night that her very attractive weather wasn’t enough to keep me interested. I had strained my imagination to picture what Snooty Ooty might have been like in the days of the British Raj, but struggled – no traces of better days remained, and charm was hard to come by. Ooty did however, for reasons unknown to me, have an abundance of ‘joint ache oil’ for sale, large jars of which stared longingly at my bones as I walked past. Also rife were shops selling all kinds of grotesque looking “home-made chocolate”, perhaps to drown one’s sorrows when that joint ache came a calling.

I spent a very long time on the internet charting where I would go next, when my beady eye spotted a serene, soul renewing property called the Cardamom House in Dindigul, deep in the south west of Tamil Nadu. I took two buses to get there – the first offered breathtaking views, and the second literally took my breath away as I sat sandwiched between 5 heavily perspiring men. The last leg comprised of a slightly traumatising auto ride that shook me to my core, literally. When I got off I half expected to slither into the gate, sans spine. After a long 9 hours of travel I was feeling rather sorry for myself, but with only a few steps to the gate, I persevered.

After a much needed shower, and pleased to still be capable of standing upright, I took in my surroundings. Cardamom House was everything it was made out to be. Oddly, not a cardamom in sight, but the fertile fields ripe with coconut, mango and banana plantations more than compensated. For two days, I awoke with and fell asleep to a faunal orchestra – conducted by birds in the day, and by crickets at night. And though stripped of all colour, the night brought a special kind of beauty – I could see only the silhouette of the Western Ghats, the occasional glimmer of a vehicle’s headlights winding down its roads, and the vast black sky above me.

Birdsong, early am, Dindigul

The majority of my time was spent dreaming, sending loved ones updates, photographing striking butterflies, and listening for new types of bird calls. On my second day there I took a walk at dusk into the expansive fields, where there would have been a lake if Indra, God of Rain had been kind. I ambled around eventually spotting a herd of goats whom I watched for a long time. The shepherd had his own collection of expressions, understood only by his caprine friends, used constantly to communicate with them. I hadn’t thought of it before, and marvelled at how one man could get hundreds of wild creatures to follow him. Lost in my musings I realised suddenly that it was getting dark, and began to trace my steps back. Even though the Cardamom House was in sight I couldn’t find the path I had taken to come down into the clearing. I began to run around with a foolish paranoia likely known only to those unfamiliar with the wilderness. In my panic I mistook a coiled rope on the ground for a snake and began to run even faster, yelping. I did find my way back eventually, and as I sat on my perch the next morning, the clearing amid the coconut groves in view, I couldn’t help but laugh at the thought of me fearfully dodging imaginary invertebrates.

It was time to leave, and with the exception of the worry that I may have contracted a grave mosquito borne disease, I felt so blessed. I wondered if my travels had begun to tell me that my soul was clamouring for nature’s lap. I concluded that for now I was still a city girl, but it was likely that I was slowly turning over to the ‘green side’.

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