Indonesia

Between the 12th and 17th centuries, the strait of Melaka and the shores of Jawa were swarming with tradesman who went on to pollinate far-away lands with Indonesian spices – some, like nutmeg, literally worth their weight in gold. Trade and the passage of people had of course begun centuries before that. Since the 7th century holy men in search of nirvana and seafarers bitten by wanderlust had been steadily dripping new ideas, micro cultures and of course food stuffs into the Archipelago.

The ground beneath Indonesian feet, volcanic and rich in nutrients bursts with fertility – no less apparent today than it was centuries ago. And just as traders of yore took the fruit of the soil elsewhere, so did they bring ingredients yet unknown to the Archipelago – Chilli being a notable contribution from the Portuguese. As I rode pillion along a breathtaking, winding road up to what felt like Paradise, giant wine coloured cacao fruit spilled over the sides of the road, while coconuts and cashew fruit threatened to hurl themselves off the tree. I had been in Indonesia almost two weeks, travelling slowly from West to Central Java and now onto Flores in the east where I was being ambushed by the foliage. And I asked myself, how a country with perhaps the best pantry on earth had succumbed to the Goreng (lit: fried) Curse? What excuse did the Archipelago have?

Where to eat in Labuan Bajo, Flores: Le Pirate offers fresh, flavourful food in an atmospheric setting spanning two floors. Tip 1: there’s a terrace on top with comfy chairs, perfect for watching the Milky Way above you why you savour the food, Tip 2: If you are willing to splurge a bit staying here is a treat, the rooms are small but very tasteful, with a great view of the harbour. Happy Banana Komodo is also stand out though expensive, offering an interesting fusion menu which includes sushi, and its milk shakes are worth returning several times for.

Nasi Goreng – the best one yet, generously loaded with cabbage and spices, a rare treat. This one was courtesy the cooks at Lotus 2 Homestay, Borobodur

On a bad day the menu would list nasi (lit:rice) goreng, mie (lit: noodles) goreng and a fair few cousins which usually meant appending your meat of choice to the end of either. On a good day you might spot with glee a green, stringy vegetable amidst the rices. Make no mistake – I made the best of this selection in the early days of our trip. Nasi Goreng for breakfast, lunch and dinner was the new normal, and despite the limited number of ingredients it was possible to discern a good one from a mediocre one. The right amount of heat, garlic, and grains which were long and separate rather than stodgy, were the hallmark of the Nasi Goreng Gold Standard.

The most heartbreaking of all though is when it came time for dessert. Days before as I was flying over Iran on my way over, my avaricious mind conjured up the desserts I would find here: coconut, exotic fruit and palm sugar would no doubt constitute the average dessert, let alone the best stuff which might say involve a cacao pudding scented with lime leaf? No. Pisang (Banana) Goreng it was. And on any day good or bad, it came with the unholy, nay, diabolical combination of chocolate and cheese.

Fresh, hot and full of flavour – tamarind fish soup with sambal (fresh chilli paste) at Le Pirate, Labuanbajo, Flores

There were bright spots, usually, for better or worse, in the dim, filament bulb-lit, yuppie friendly restaurants run by foreigners. Chilli, coconut, lime, turmeric and local vegetables all came together harmoniously just as the heavens intended. Le Pirate for example in the port city of Labuan Bajo on the island of Flores, served up a delicious tamarind fish soup topped with sprouts and fresh chilli and served with steamed rice. I was overcome by excitement as I tucked in, much like the previous day when I spotted a spectacular blue star shaped coral in the shallow Floresian waters.

Glorious food should’ve been something to take for granted by the end of this trip. But it remained elusive. Now faint memories of my travels through Cambodia (my last visit to south east Asia) returned to me: giant, spiced prawns, rich black pepper sauces and full bodied milkshakes came to mind. Signs of Cambodia’s hardship were aplenty though, with vendors pushing cartfuls of fried multi-legged creatures – a hangover from when food was scarce. But the cuisine has much more to it – if fried insects didn’t stir your salivary glands there was much else to choose from. I brushed these thoughts aside – though separated from the Malay peninsula by only the Gulf of Thailand, Cambodia’s food history was made up of very different chapters, and I suppose a comparison was not in order. Understanding Indonesia’s culinary journey and unlocking the mystery of the Goreng Curse warranted further investigation and would have to wait.